(January 2026)
2026–50 years of graduation for my husband and his school mates from the Mothers International School. As a celebration 17 of us (mates and spouses) went on a trip to Auroville in Pondicherry ( Pondi affectionately called or Puducherry its now official name)
Auroville was the dream of the Mother. The Mother, a disciple of Shri Aurobindo was a French lady Mirra Alfassa, who had since girlhood had visions of a “dark Asiatic figure “ she called “Krishna” . (Mirra Alfassa — Wikipedia )
Auroville, as Mother dreamt was to be a safe place where people from all over the world, of different nationalities and different sensibilities and personalities could come together and live in harmony contributing collectively to the society and to the higher consciousness.
The Matri Mandir at the centre embodies the soul of Auroville. It is in the form of a huge sphere surrounded by twelve petals and topped with a dome covered in golden discs
Which reflect sunlight giving the Mandir its radiance.
The twelve petals symbolize the twelve attributes like courage, equality, peace, progress …, (Matrimandir — The Petals — Matrimandir)
The entire structure is supported by four pillars which are symbolic representations of
Mahakali, representing strength and swiftness,
Maheshwari, symbolizing compassion, wisdom and calm,
Mahalakshmi, reflecting opulence and attraction,
Mahasaraswati, representing knowledge, creativity and perfection.
At the time of construction couples from all over the world as well as from all over India came with a handful of soil from their region which they put in an urn along with writings of the Mother- today the Urn resides in a close by Amphitheatre.
The Matri Mandir is surrounded by beautiful gardens — a rock garden where one can meditate to the soothing rings of a nearby wind chime, the pebble garden with a variety of cacti and a small rivulet trickling in the centre, another with circular ponds each with its own pink, white, yellow, lavender, etc. lotus or water lilies, and more (unfortunately due to paucity of time could not see all of them. (visitors need to leave the area by 11:30 am- so if visiting time your slots as early as possible)
The Mandir is located next to a huge banyan tree (Mother felt this would be the heart of Auroville and the Mandir its Soul). This 100+ year old tree is spread over an expanse of a diameter more than 50 feet with the areal roots so thick they could be considered individual trees in their own right.
To visit we had to make bookings online (each day a few slots for the next few days are opened) Visitors are advised to keep silent as soon as they line up for the visit — first is a short audiovisual on Auroville , followed by a bus ride to the drop off point where one assembles as per the coloured card given. After a round of instructions — deposit all belongings, including cell phone, no pictures allowed, last stop for loo or drinking water etc- on to another point where a set of instructions covering deportment inside the inner sanctum on to under the banyan tree to ruminate and be with oneself. Of course without talking- not even whispers.
As one of our group observed the entire process was possibly to train us to keep quiet and observe total and complete silence once we enter the inner sanctum.
From the Banyan tree we went on to the Matri Mandir (four trees of White Hibiscus encouraging us along- usual colours I’ve seen for the flower have been shades of red, pink and some orange) entering from between the two petals down an incline to below the central dome. The place was like an arena with steps running all around in a circle intersected by sloping arms where the petals were. In the centre was a marble lotus pond with water trickling down its petals
It was so restful being there- sitting with eyes closed, a soft cool breeze and the sound of trickling water. I could have sat there for hours. In fact, someone had to nudge me when we were asked to move from there for the inner sanctum.
From the start when we reached Auroville to this point it took us nearly 90–120 minutes.
Halfway up the same incline we had descended are doorways cut into stone for entering the inner sanctum. On entering we saw small alcoves, illuminated by a reddish glow for meditation. The single line narrow circular corridor led to an open area with stone benches where we were given white socks to put on our feet and covering our trouser ends. Volunteers were at various points for guidance and ensuring complete silence. Once inside the dome the environment was hushed with a patina of surreality. There was a circular pathway along which one ascended in one direction and descended in the other.
The walls were marble and coinciding with the petals structure outside were the inner structure with a gold leafed line running lengthwise down the centre along which water trickled down.
Many of our group felt it had a sci-fi effect. To me the slowly ascending line of people (some walking straight most slightly bent with their head down) seemed as souls walking up the ramp to their judgement- contemplating the life they had led. The descending line walked fractionally faster — but my vision focused more on the ascending folks.
The inner sanctum was white lit by the bluish tinge glow. A huge crystal Ball was in the centre of the hall with a powerful beam of sunlight
illuminating it from above. White carpet covered the floor and a few chairs and many white cushions were propped up at the sides for seating. We were silently directed to these.
Our quiet meditation was suddenly interrupted by a resounding coughing sound echoing and magnified multiple times as the “cougher” quickly made his/ her way out of the room. I learnt that the best way to meditate is not to close your eyes completely but to keep them slightly open (as are the Buddhas eyes in statues) The central orb with the light beam on it was mesmerizing. There was a mechanism on the roof which could track the movement of the sun through the horizon such that the beam fell on the crystal so long as the sun was up in the sky.
Too soon- our session inside come to a close (barely 15 minutes) and we had to leave carrying the experience and feeling of peace within us. Back to reality.
Besides the Matri Mandir we visited three more places- a group sound healing session where we lay, eyes closed, on mats with a cushion beneath our head, while some people made sounds of wind, water, bells, etc. using a variety of instruments. Some of us fell into deep sleep, others fidgeted not being used to lying on the floor for long stretches (an hour) — most simply enjoyed the sounds as they came.
Another was SWARAM — the store where a variety of musical instruments, made at Auroville were sold. Wind chimes from as small as a few inches to ones a few feet in length, flat and tubular bells and gongs, tarangs (similar to xylophones) and other wired instruments of various materials and sizes, drums and various percussion items, flutes etc. A trip to the nearby Sound garden was something , I wish we had time to explore.
Solitude Farm is where we had our lunch — a farm to table concept where meals and drinks made form stuff grown in the Auroville farms are served — papaya, pineapple, spinach smoothies made with coconut milk, millet rice served with plantain and other vegetables, dosa, sambhar, peanut and coconut chutney — an enjoyable experience
Pondicherry
A town which sounds romantic — in reality it’s quite dirty — rubbish piled up all over, open drains at places and so many dogs all around. That was the part you hit when driving down from Chennai (closest airport)
Puducherry was part of the Pallava kingdom in ancient times. The French East India company had set up a trading post here, were defeated by the Dutch in the 1693 only to have the city returned to them in 1699 (Wiki)
The French divided the city into the White Town and the Black Town on either side of a running canal in the middle of the city.
“Why do invaders and conquerors divide the conquered area into parts- ours and theirs- did they the local community as a threat they needed to protect themselves, or is it the human mentality to see safety in numbers- similar to themselves, a sense of us v/s them- the Dutch, the British, Hitler all did it — did the ancient Hindu kingdoms do the same when they fought each other ? “
Unfortunately, school curriculums do not focus on ancient Hindu dynasties — so no exposure.
The Black Town was of course the Tamilian quarter (Incidentally Tamil is one of the oldest languages of the world) while the White Town consisted of the French quarter- straight perpendicular roads with mainly mustard yellow, but also pink and other pastel shaded houses on either side. Bright pink bougenvillas growing riotously over walls and balustrades was a common sight.
The French quarter had the Shri Aurobindo’s and the Mother’s Maha Samadhi in the courtyard of the Ashram where both resided while alive. Surrounding were other units (schools, Embroidery centre, Perfume making, etc) run by the Aurobindo Society– distinguished by grey paint and white trim on the buildings.
This part of the town had many eating places- “The Spot” a two-storey restaurant with imposing colonial columns and balustrades offered Indian, Italian, French, Mediterranean, etc cuisines. Popular place, good food, great ambiance.
The Promenade next to the Bay of Bengal was a mile long walkway along the seashore with the 7 pillar Gandhi statue at one end and the guest house/ hostel of the Aurobindo Ashram at the other. In between there were various eateries.
There is a Famous Ganesh Temple close by to the Maha Samadhi sthal. The story goes that Ganeshji came to the Mother (in her dreams) complaining that there are not too many devotees coming to the temple as they all went to Shri Aurobindo’s Samadhi. The Mother proclaimed Ganesh ji to be her son — lo and behold — devotees flocked to the temple as well.
A beautiful temple with the ceiling at the entrance painted with Ganesh ji being felicitated by various Gods and Goddesses.
Inside the walls are adorned with beautiful pictures of Ganesh ji in his various forms.
Newly weds come to seek the Lords blessings (saw a couple in all their finery including the jaimala)
Visited two churches in Pondicherry
The Immaculate Conception of Mary (also called the White Church),built by the Dutch in 1693 (destroyed and rebuilt four times) had many statues of Baby Jesus with Mary and a King
The Sacred Heart of Jesus Basilica (also called the Red Church)- a 100 year old church. Notice the golden pillar in front of the church — (such pillars are not part of church architecture. Maybe it had been erected here to give the converted people something similar — as in the stupas of the Hindu religion)
From Puducherry drove to Mahabalipuram the kingdom of the Pallava kings in the 6th and 7th century. It was a major port of the Silk Route. Maritime trading was with merchants from Greece, Rome, China and other southern Asian lands.
Animal sacrifice, at the start of a journey was common practised. Hence the name Maha-bali-puram — a place of great sacrifice. It was also referred to as Mamalla-puram for the great wrestler the ruling Pallava king was (mamalla= wrestler).
Many temples were made in the area under the Pallava rule. Typically, the plinth was laid and the inner sanctum was constructed first, with the lateral and surrounding walls coming later. The roof would be the final to be placed. Often a temple was a work in progress completed across various different kings with one completing the work of the previous king.
The Shore temple was a group of 7 Shiv and Vishnu temples built along the coastline of Bay of Bengal. Only one of them remains standing today. This temple has been built in overlaying layers by multiple kings.A paste of sand, seashells and egg whites was used to join the stones together one on top of the other.
In the courtyard adjacent to the temple are placed 64 Nandi Bull statues- excavated from different parts of the city. There is hope to find some more bull statues in the future.
The picture above shows where the smaller boats carrying the goods to and fro from the ships anchored at sea came and docked (front right) and the altar for sacrifycing the animals can be seen as the far left of the image.
Interestingly — outside the temple complex we saw lots of ladies dressed in shades of orange and red
one such group is captured above. These ladies are on a Devi Pilgrimage visiting temples dedicated to the various goddesses. They are attired in the colour of the goddess.
Back to the Shore temple. The temple has two doors for “darshan” one facing the east (sunrise) and the other West (sunset) The shivling placed in the eastern doorway gets the first rays of the rising sun falling on it. It is made of Basalt stone and devotees believed to have medicinal properties which get enhanced as it is warmed.
The door facing the west has an idol of Shiva, His wife and son.
Brahma and Vishnu are standing behind — creating the Hindu Trinity of Brahma Vishnu Mahesh.
In between these two doorways is the inner chamber with a reclining Vishnu (was closed to visitors when we went)
The temple displays Chinese influence in the Lion statue placed in the courtyard with a square cut where the heart is. Within the cut out is the figure of Durga with her eight arms (warrior).
A deer with its head cut off is next to the lion and Durga is seen sitting on the lion’s haunch. Her rage has been pacified by the sacrifice.
The Panch Rathas (5 Rath)
Built around the 7th Century these were totally buried in sand ( to preserve them from attackers, I guess) — It was the British who excavated them 200 Years ago. There are two explanations — the northern folks feel these were depicted to represent the 5 Pandavas and Draupadi while the Southern explanation says they are depiction of the 5 Elemental Gods- Durga/ Shiv/ Vishnu/ Surya / Indra basis the carvings on them and the attendant animals next to them. ( Lion for Durga, Bull for Shiv, a reclining bed for Vishnu, the Elephant (Eravat) for Indra and ShivShakti for Surya)
All 5 rathas have a common plinth — a common base. These structures were carved top down starting from the roof. The common methodology of the times to break the rock mountains was to drill holes in the rock, place wood in them and burn them The heat caused the rocks to splinter and the statues etc were carved out. The rudimentary blasting and the intricate detailing for each structure makes it even more awe inspiring.
The Ardhnarisvara statue (half man Half woman) on the wall of the Surya rath. The difference in each side is seen in eyes, the earring, the shoulders, the breast, the roundness of the hips, the thighs, the anklets…..
Chinese Premiers have twice visited Mahabalipuram .
The connection could be due to the trade they did — their influence is seen in the temple structures, Hiuen Tsang a Chinese traveller in the 7th Century visited here and carried back tales, a Pallav prince, whom the Chinese call Bodhidharma, is said to have travelled to China from Kanchipuram via Mahabalipuram, as a messenger of Buddhism and reached Guangzhou in 527 AD. ( Wiki)
A coincidence or imagination:
The first visit of a Chinese Premier was in 1961 and in 1962 we had the Indo China War
The second visit of a Chinese Premier was in 2019 and in 2020 we had the Galwan scirimish.
The Cave temples at Mahabalipuram are another must do (we couldn’t due to paucity of time)
All over Mahabalipuram there are sculptors working along the roads in their small studios mainly working with black stone but also with wood and metal making art come alive with their pieces.
A small coastal town, sitting at sea level on the Bay of Bengal barely covering 8 sq kms has a population of 22000 ( in 2025) yet it packs a punch and should be a must do on any travellers list .
Small tip — if visiting any of the monuments- please take a guide — they bring life to the place