We drove down to Lucknow from Delhi (for a wedding) — a beautiful road, a smooth, comfortable ride except for the loo stops. Despite all efforts made by the cleaning staff the tourists foot fall in UP is so high that just to clean the lady had to cordon off areas from use !! Unlike the Uttaranchal / Himachal route — the pit stops were few and far apart.
The transition from road to city was literally within a blink of the eye — with no gradual transitioning from sparse to the populous. one minute you are on the road with fields on either side and next you are right in the midst of a bustling city.
The bustle, the traffic and the chaos kept increasing as we moved towards the centre of Lucknow. Autos (sleeker , longer, thinner than Delhi Autos), motorcycles, cars jostling together-each assuming their own right of the way. Yet the traffic moved without jams or bad tempers or honks.
The narrow roads were hemmed in by houses and shops cheek to jowl- an ancient haveli with its columnar balconies and jharokas next to the more plebian modern day constructions, many chikan shops amidst those catering to living needs If there was a ठण्डी बीयर beer shop could a माहा ठण्डी बीयर shop be far behind 🙂
Interesting fact- Nowhere could we find a Diet coke to have-though we did see a three storey-ed Piles hospital. (With the amount of non vegetarian fare consumed in the city it was a requirement I guess)
We were spoiled for choice as to where to sample the cities cuisine- there were shops were their mouth watering sizzling meats calling out to you- every few streets away. (this is old city — not its sleeker avatar at Gomti Nagar)
As we had come to attend a wedding our sampling was limited — but the Pasanda Kabab at Nausijaan (opposite the family courts) deserves a mention-one of the softest and juiciest kabab Ive ever had- very different from its cousin — the Galouti.
Interesting fact: Many houses had solar panels atop their roofs-proof of government incentives?
Lucknow and Hazratganj had been intertwined in my mind and I was excited to visit — -what a let down- a rustic cousin to our own Khan Market– an area full of shops (most flaunting modern day brands and logo) My bad I guess — romanticizing over a name.
We managed to fit in a visit a few iconic buildings….
The Residency: Spread over 33 acres it was built by Nawab Asaf-ud-Daulah for his own pleasure and residence boasting of a main palace with a tehkhana (basement) for storing armory and armaments as well as the entry point of various underground tunnels leading towards the four directions, the queens mahal, bawarchi khana, gusal or a place where water was collected etc. A sophisticated underground canal system was built to prevent any water logging (top left)
Later on the British claimed this for their own use and built a infirmary to take care of themselves and a gallows to take care of Indians who didn’t please them.
The mutiny of 1857, of which we all know thanks to Aamir Khan’s Mangal Pandey, was here. Scars of which can still be seen in the bombed out holes of the main buildings and the 2000 + graves of lords and ladies. of course the death of the Indian soldiers is left to our imaginations
The locals have a different slant to the cause of the rebellion. For them it was the local population who took up arms in solidarity with Aurangzeb in Delhi when the British beheaded his two sons and sent their heads, ceremoniously decorated on a platter to Delhi.
There are two Immambadas — the Bada and the Chota — basically to commemorate the deaths of their prophet Husain and a months old relative of his. Each year Muslims during Muharram carry Tazias accompanied by processions through out the city. These Tazias are placed in the two Immambadas where they rest for an year. The subsequent year, to make place for new tazias the older ones are buried into the ground.
Pictures galore on the net- but this one above showcases the golden lady statue (on either end of the entrance door) they are actually lightening arresters to safeguard the high doors.
There are mosques in both Immambadas — which till date are closed to tourists on Friday when the Friday prayers are said. The Bada Immambada has a labryinth atop it- with windows looking down into the halls below. This was how the buildings were protected against intruders. Alcoves were there within the tunnels where armaments could be stockpiled, whispers made against the walls could be heard at far away distances, narrow windows provided a direct line of vision of the main gate, etc. Its open to the public to explore — — but go if you are fit and have no back issues- the steps are murder to the lower back.
there is also a Baoli on the premise- the story goes that the chief accountant jumped to his death into the waters here along with the key to the treasury and map of the labryinth than let the invading British army get hold of them
If you can overlook the traffic and chaos the old city is a pleasure to drive through with its old monuments ( converted to govt offices or colleges, the beautiful post office, the havelis, the monuments, …Keeping with the ethos the street lamps too resemble ancient lanterns
Could not speak to the locals so donot know how much of the Lucknowi lehaza of speech still exists but lets give them the benefit of doubt.
All in all , visit Lucknow with an open mind, receptive heart ignoring the congestion and narrow streets enjoy the sight, the history, the cuisine- shop if you must from the better ( more expensive shops) quality may be better there — the ware at chowk (the wholesale market) can be suspect.