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Indian Sub-Continent Experience

Fort Tijara

December 2017 · Fort Tijara, Alwar · India

Had a 3N 4D vacation at the Tijara Fort- — a repurposed 19th century fort which was never completed fully nor lived in till 2016 when it was converted to a Neemrana resort and opened to the public.

Off the Alwar highway, surrounded by mustard fields the fort sits atop a sharply rising plateau .

Entering the huge Imposing doorway — we climb up a flight of steps flanked by greeting elephants to enter the reception area- almost expected to be greeted by garlands and ittar, served with a refreshing lemony drink- alas that was not so — -instead there were balconies and jharokhas- through which we could glimpse the checkerboard in varying shades of green fields extending as far as the eye could see.

The resort consisted of two huge abodes- the Mardana and the Rani Mahal with a vast expanse of land in between- (which is now populated with flowers, trees, shrubs and another structure where breakfast/ lunch /tea and dinner is served.) Incidentally going to the Mardana — is a small aerobic exercise in itself. To give you an idea of the vastness of the property — just going from mardana to reception

once or twice and then going and coming for meals –was enough to complete 10, 000 + steps for the day.

The Mardana — as was wont in the bygone era was an expansive building- plain on the outside but consisting of huge (covered) halls surrounding the courtyard in the centre. The floors were gaily coloured stone designs — typical of a Shyam Ahuja dari- so artistically crafted that at first glance they seemed to be real dari . The central hall was a Huge Baithak — with a mini throne -ish window platform in the centre and various seating arrangements all around. _ Each seating a different sofa/ armchair design and colour — yet gelling together seen together. The rooms were on the periphery of the halls as well as on the single storey above. Each room named after an artist/ artisan with a sampling of his work framed in the room.

The Rani Mahal in contrast was a more imposing building — four storeyed with multiple jharokas and small balconies under windows and all around the fort, bounded by turrets at the corners

                                                                                                                Tijara Fort

The centre courtyard was more of an atrium filled with huge trees and shrubs. Each floor had open balconies around the atrium space with rooms towards the boundary of the fort. Here the rooms were names after female artists. The turrets had single rooms with personal verandahs and sitting space with a direct lift access.

Neemrana retained the flavour of old palaces and forts by maintaining stairways as they must have been — Staircases towards the periphery of the fort were narrow (single person abreast), steep and high- nearly knee height at places- the two youngest men of our group were forcibly volunteered to be the occupants here- us of 50+ years would have sprained our knees just going up and down !!!

Also had a Hawa mahal –consisted of arched windows and ledges (much like the bridge in harry potter movies) overlooking an oasis of palm trees (just below the fort- reminiscent of a moat which may have been there earlier) — a place to sit and read or generally while away time looking out the fields extending far and beyond.

Spectacular sunsets (and am guessing sunrises- did not wake up early enough to see) could be seen from many vantage points of the fort- terraces (still work in progress all around) balconies or high gardens. The plateau of the fort was the only high thing seen for miles around- an obvious advantage in the 19th century but miraculously even in the present times no high rises had come up.

The account seems to be more a brochure for the property — but the fort left an impression of grandeur which asked to be shared……

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